Makassar, Palu, and Things in Between

October commemorates my first month in Makassar.

As I once mentioned before, I currently work for a project that focuses on improving farmers' livelihood in Sulawesi. The main project areas are Bantaeng, Bulukumba (both is South Sulawesi, Konawe, Kolaka (in Southeast Sulawesi), and soon Gorontalo. In each province, there’s a project office that coordinates all activity. What’s more, there’s also a representative in Makassar (which is me), that serves as the hub for the areas.

 


My project rented a space in Yayasan Bakti, which is where I’m currently based in. Bakti or Bursa Pengetahuan Kawasan Timur Indonesia (Eastern Indonesia Knowledge Exchange) is an independent non-profit organization which mission is to support the development process of Eastern Indonesia by facilitating knowledge exchange to public.

The rented office space is around 3 x 3 m and furnished with table, chair, and bookshelf. But again, those are not enough. I still need to procure table and chairs for visitor, small cupboard, printer, stationary, yet mugs and caffeine supplies.

I stayed in Aston Hotel Makassar for the first couple of days, and was accompanied by Nora, Bantaeng office’s project assistant in setting up the office.

Nora, is one of kind. She grew up in Makassar,  so she knows every inches of this city like the back of her hand. I was so lucky to have her with me, not just because her extensive knowledge that will make you immediately toss the free city guides you found at the hotel’s lobby’s shelf,  but above all, because she is a very nice person to be with.

My dear Nora

Together with her, I ran around Makassar, from finding a place to stay, to Ace Hardware, to furniture shops at Latimojong street, to stationary warehouse at Sam Ratulangi street, to Panakukkang mall, to peripherals agent, and to MTC the electronic center.  All was done in two days.

By the weekend, I checked out from Aston and moved in to the new place (rented room or ‘kos’).  

Earlier, somebody told me that the posh house nearby the office offers such service. So I went there. I knocked and I knocked, and asked if they have a room for rent. Little  did I know, the residence belongs to a well-known legislative member, and the the place, is just purely private house. I was disappointed, but then one of the house’s staff  informed that there’s a place just around the corner which offers accommodation. I went to see it with Nora, and fell in love instantly.

The room might not be big, but it covers all my need. Plus, it has window which overlooks a pretty yard (previously I’ve visited several kos place where they give ridiculous price for a tiny room that doesn’t even have a window).  

The location is perfect as well, only 50 m away from the office. And the best part is, you can find  Pizza Hut, KFC, Circle K, laundry, fruit shop, bakery, and Mall Ratu Indah, all in walking distance.

The moving-in process was quick since I didn’t bring much stuff. By  midday it was all finished.

Later in the afternoon I visited my good friend, Bisri.  Bisri and I used to stay at the Kangaroo house in Jayapura, hence it was such a lovely surprise when one day  he contacted me to inform that he has successfully landed on a good job in Makassar and will be based in the city for two years.

We shared stories over fish fiesta at Lae Lae restaurant  and had a good time gazing at the sunset at Losari beach. We spent hours reminiscing the good old days in Papua and updating on eachother’s life. I had so much fun that day and fell asleep as soon as I reached home.

Seafood fiesta

Bisri. Look at his tshirt, rad isn't it?

It was a very good sleep, that it was only interrupted by loud energetic barks coming from the yard. As I opened my door, I saw my landlord’s little  boy playing with three cute dogs.  One is named Lassie, the other is Sunrise, and Eva. My landlord has them transported from Jakarta, and they just arrived several days earlier. I can’t help to smile because you know how much I always wanted to have a pet, and this is just perfect. I can play with the dogs like anytime I want ;)

I spent my first Sunday in Makassar visiting my mom’s older sister. The last time I saw her was 6 years ago, and it was really nice to see her again. She bears a quite resemblance to my mom, thus hugging her was like hugging my mama :).  We chatted for a while, talking about random things and remarkable places in city worth to visit.

The weekend passes so quickly as Monday always comes to soon. The Makassar office has now fully operated, and my busy days had just begun.

That week, we had a visitor from Bogor: a project’s intern who’s doing research about cacao certification. Trying to be a good host, Nora and I took him for ice cream and dinner.

We stayed up late and I was kinda surprised because by the time we left the restaurant, there were still a lot of people occupying the tables. Apparently in here, people do hang out a lot even it’s weekday. Perhaps because in Makassar the distance between places is near, and the traffic is relatively nice, so going from one spot to another becomes effortless.

I got  home at midnight feeling happy and content. But alas, that just lasted for couple of minutes, before I realized that I didn’t have my phone with me. I tried to recollect pieces of my memory, but failed to reconstruct it as I totally couldn’t think of where I might have left it.

It was only my first week and I already lost my phone. Great. Just great.

But  when I think about it again, probably the incident was meant to be that way. Because somehow, I’ve been thinking to ditch the old Blackberry and replace it with an Android phone. This been going on for months but I was hesitate because the only reason I buy a new phone is when the old one is no longer functioned. But now, it is even no longer existed before I say goodbye.

"O dear old phone, thank for the all ups and downs. I apologize for the frantic flings and crashes,  I didn’t mean it. And please do not hold grudge for the reason that you’re quickly replaced.  No, it’s not you, it’s me, I just need something to hold on to.”

Village visit and more to come

The next thing I know, my time was soaked between jobs and travellings. I went to visit Bantaeng and Bulukumba to observe a research done by colleagues from Bogor. We moved from one village to another everyday, collecting information, doing interview, talking to the villagers and farmers. While the experience of going to the village always fascinates me, at the same, it has once again showed me how awful the development gap in this country, as the capital shimmers in charms and enchantments while in one village, lots of its residents don't even have access to electricity.

I love going to the village, but I have to admit that Bantaeng and Bulukumba did wear me out. Being constantly on the road is exhausting. Yet the fatigue seems to lessen because I’m always pampered with breathtaking view and picturesque sky. Every afternoon I would gaze upon, and completely blown away all over again, to see the orange streaks emerge and transform the sky into a stage of glory. That’s what I called a beauty that eliminates pain away.

After four days in the districts, I went home to Makassar. Actually I really wanted to stay longer, and visited the famous beautiful beach of Tanjung Bira in Bulukumba, but I couldn’t, because I have a conference in Palu to attend.

I got back to the city by car, arrived at night, did the unpack and repack as soon as I got home.  I really wish that I could do it later, but my flight was at midday, which meant I have less than 12 hours to get prepared. Hoosah.

The flight to Palu took 50 minutes.  I supposed Palu is not a popular destination, hence everyday there’s only one schedule from and to Makassar  (this flight will also carry passangers from and to Jakarta).

That day, the plane was filled with people from Makassar who were attending the conference. It  was organized by Bakti, and the event unified development workers, governments and stakeholders in Eastern Indonesia. In it, people gathered, shared best practices, presented success story, and had a workshop to discuss about ideas for the future development of Eastern Indonesia.

I found the event remarkable,  particularly because I met inspiring people, such as midwife Joria of East Flores. I talked with her during lunch break and was in awe as she told the detail of her work. For your info, Ibu Joria has initiated 2H2, a text message system to build a data collection of pregnant women and their due date, which successfully helps reducing the number of maternal and neonatal mortality in the district.

Then I also met William of Threads of Life, an Ubud-based organization that helps weaving communities in Nusa Tenggara by revitalizing the traditional technique and encouraging the use of natural coloring. We were together in a group discussion, and it was just amazing to be able to share words with him.

The conference

The conference lasted for two days, and unfortunately I didn’t have much time to go around. I tried to make the best use of my spare time on the third day by going around the neighbourhood. My flight was in the afternoon, so I spent my morning visiting the museum of Central Sulawesi in the heart of Palu, then speeding to Donggala.

Donggala is a district adjacent to the capital, and famous for Kaledo, crispy fried red onion, and its pretty Tanjung Karang beach. According to story, the traditional cuisine, Kaledo stands for ‘Kaki Lembu Donggala’ or translated as Donggala’s ox feet (broth). The soup is usually sprinkled with fried shallot and served with boiled cassava. For me, the taste is rather tangy yet sour that lucratively excites my taste buds.

Crunchy fried shallot is also a typical gift that most tourists after. People say that the shallot  from Donggala is special. They’re so crunchy, unlike other red onions that tend to get  soggy when they’re  deep-fried. The fried shallot is a high demand item, you’ll find the two top-selling goods on the souvenir shop are traditional weaving, and yes, crispy fried shallot.

Donggala

My visit to Donggala is later completed with a quick stop over to Tanjung Karang. When I arrived, there were only me and a bunch of local tourist who had just finished taking up group photos. No one played in the water I don’t know why. At that moment I really wish I had brought my swimming suit. But again, when I looked into my watch, I realized that I practically had no time left. I can’t miss the flight, so I gotta go. Too bad.

Tanjung Karang

I reached the airport on time, and waited for couple of minutes for boarding.  A random thing hit me when suddenly a young lady asked if I went to UI. I said  yes. Yet  her questioning went deeper as she buzzed with "Were you International Relation major?". I said no. She said "But you went to FISIP right? Because I think I’ve seen you at Takor". The word ‘Takor’ marveled me. She must have attended FISIP also, or the neighbouring faculties for instance Literature or Psychology, because it is nearly impossible for outsiders to be familiar with ‘Takor'.

We then said hi. We also exchanged name (and facebook of course). Turned out that she majored in Political Science at FISIP UI. I guess we might have bumped into each other at Takor on the school days. She works as project officer in an NGO in Jakarta, and her immediate respond when she found out that I also work for an NGO was “Oh my god. Look at us now, two activists, who happened to cross path in a place one thousand miles away from Jakarta”. Oh well, o la la. What a lovely coincidence.

That afternoon, I waved goodbye to her as the jet touched down at Sultan Hasanuddin airport. Sun rays bathed me as I got out of the plane. I felt simply delighted and blessed.

For the next couple of weeks, my days will be filled with another village visit. This time like totally going around, because I have a research to conduct in 12 villages in 2 provinces. I’m excited, challenged, and worried at the same time because I know it’s going to be one hell of an assignment.

But hey, winners never quit, and quitters never win 😉.